Sandakan, the second-largest city in Sabah, East Malaysia, is a captivating destination that offers a rare blend of poignant history, rich cultural heritage, and unparalleled access to the legendary biodiversity of Borneo. Often referred to as the "Nature City," Sandakan serves as the launchpad for some of the world's most vital conservation and wildlife experiences.
Located on the northeastern coast of Borneo, overlooking an inlet of the Sulu Sea, Sandakan’s history is defined by its strategic location and its resilience.
A History of Prosperity and Tragedy: Founded in the late 19th century by the British North Borneo Company (BNBC), the city was initially named Elopura (meaning "Beautiful City") but soon reverted to the local name Sandakan. It rapidly grew into the bustling capital of British North Borneo (now Sabah), flourishing as a major port for the timber, rubber, and jungle product trade. This prosperity led to a significant influx of Chinese immigrants, earning it the moniker "Little Hong Kong of North Borneo."
However, this golden era was tragically cut short by World War II. Sandakan was nearly totally destroyed by Allied bombing and was the starting point for the infamous Sandakan Death Marches, one of the most brutal chapters of the war. After the war, the capital was shifted to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu), and Sandakan was rebuilt. Today, the city maintains its commercial importance, focusing on palm oil, timber, and the burgeoning eco-tourism industry, which leverages its proximity to world-class rainforests.
Sandakan's greatest attractions are not found within the city center itself, but in the surrounding natural wonders and the historical sites that detail its turbulent past.
Sepilok Wildlife Corridor: Sandakan is the unrivaled hub for visiting three of Borneo’s most iconic and unique wildlife sanctuaries, often located next to each other:
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre: The world's first orangutan sanctuary, established in 1964, offers visitors a chance to see orphaned and rescued orangutans learning to survive in the wild before their release.
Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC): Located right next to Sepilok, this is a dedicated sanctuary for the world's smallest and one of the rarest bear species, the Bornean Sun Bear.
Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC): A haven for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts, featuring an impressive steel canopy walkway that offers spectacular views over the rainforest and is perfect for spotting Bornean hornbills and other endemic birds.
The Kinabatangan River Safari: Sandakan is the gateway to the Lower Kinabatangan River, a designated Wildlife Sanctuary and the second-longest river in Malaysia. A multi-day river cruise here is an absolute must-do for nature lovers, offering one of Asia's most concentrated wildlife experiences. You can spot the Bornean "Big Five": Orangutans, Proboscis Monkeys, Pygmy Elephants, Crocodiles, and Hornbills.
Selingan Turtle Island Park: A short distance from Sandakan's coast, this park is a sanctuary for green and hawksbill sea turtles. An overnight trip allows visitors the extraordinary chance to witness the turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs and the release of hatchlings into the sea.
Historical and Cultural Trail: Within the city, the Sandakan Heritage Trail guides visitors through key historical landmarks, including the peaceful Sandakan Memorial Park (commemorating the WWII POW camp and death marches), the charming Agnes Keith House (former home of the American author who wrote Land Below the Wind), and the panoramic views from the Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple.
Fresh Seafood: The local cuisine, particularly the fresh seafood, is a major draw. The local markets and floating villages, like Sim Sim Water Village, are famed for serving incredibly fresh and affordable seafood, reflecting the city’s maritime heritage.
Sandakan is not a conventional tourist city; it is a destination for the ethically-minded traveler and the dedicated nature enthusiast.
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